heres a bundle of information in know particular order but i hope it helps.Plus links in sources
How to Prepare at a Western Horse Show
When you get to the show, make your horse comfortable, then check your entries. At small shows they often will post the patterns and work outs in the morning, at larger shows you will get them prior to the day of the show. Only study the event that is next or you will confuse yourself.
Ensure you have a bottle of water handy for between event replensihments. Dehydration doesn't help you, your horse or your memory.
Put your show gear on your horse well in advance of the event so you can make sure you have time to warm up.
Ensure your clothing is ready to be put on, its not fun trying to find that missing spur or your belt buckle right before you have to enter the ring.
Once mounted, do a jog around in the arena if permissable other wise just around in a small circle, then revise your patterns.
If you get stuck, ask the steward or ring master if the pattern is supposed to say what it says, judges can make mistakes! You should be aware that a spelling mistake may mean something not at all intended.
Try not to watch other riders, even though you may think they'll do it right, they may not, and if you copy them, you may get it wrong as well.
After each class, study your next pattern, drink and eat a little. Keeping your fluids up keeps your memory active.
Tips
Breathe!
Smile -- it's fun!
Make it your world; don't let a small thing ruin it. If you mess up a pattern, move on, it's just a show. Concentrate on your next class.
Take a piece of paper and a pen to copy patterns to practice at home and at the show. Doing this, you won't be clogging the notice board.
Warnings
Always obey arena rules and listen to stewards, ringmasters and judges.
Don't hog the patterns if they are on a notice board, others will need to study them too.
Safety over fashion!
MODEL HORSE SHOWING & TIPS
TIPS AND INFORMATION
This page was created mostly to help the beginner with choosing models that do best in the "live" show ring. I have mostly shown in OF (original "factory" finish) halter classes, so that is the subject of these tips.
A variety of manufacturer's molds will be at most shows, such as Breyer, Peter Stone, Hartland, Best Talking Horses, Black Horse Ranch, Hagen-Renaker, North Light, and Winners Choice, to name just a few of the popular ones. How well your models place in their classes, depends a lot on the judge, and of course the condition your models are in. It's best to show models that represent the breed standards, are as close to perfect condition as possible, have straight legs and ears, with nice shading and neatly painted details.
Some models show better as a different breed other than what the manufacturer calls it. And some show better as half or mixed breeds. Checking a breed standard guide for conformation type and allowed colors, is a good idea. (See my Links page.) Show models should look as realistic as possible, and not be in poses too radical. From information I have read, the following Breyer molds DO NOT do very well in the live show ring, especially in the Open Division, because of poor conformation. But that doesn't mean you can't try showing them if you are entered in the Novice division:
Khemosabi
Rugged Lark
Appy Lady Roxana
The Family Arabs
Touch of Class
Buckshot
Llanarth True Briton
Secretariat
Smoky the Cowhorse
Sherman Morgan
Old Timer
Mesteno series Mustangs
Western Prancer
Western Horse and Pony
Fury Prancer
Grazing or Lying Models
Bucking or Rearing Models
Running Stallion and Running Mare.
It's also best not to show decorator color models, except in special classes for those types. Halters are optional for halter classes, but if they are used, they must be breed appropriate for the show ring, fit correctly, and the lead line should lay across the model's withers. A "handler" doll is not usually used, except in showmanship classes.
GET READY TO SHOW!
Wash models with mild soap and cool water, dry gently with soft cloth (DON'T RUB), and attach labeled (according to show rules) hang tags to model's legs 2 to 3 days before the show.
Wrap each model separately in bubble wrap and/or old clean white T-shirts, and pack them in a sturdy plastic box with a lid. Use PLENTY of padding around the models, especially the heads and tail tips. (Suggestion: I pack my traditionals standing up side by side, with my classics and foals lying sideways on top. My SMs get wrapped separately and put into a smaller box. I have also made bubble wrap bags for each model by ironing two edges of a folded over piece of bubble wrap. Iron on medium, with a cloth between the bubble wrap and the iron.)
Lay a tablecloth, beach towel or blanket on top of the packed models before putting the lid on. This cloth will be used to cover your setup table at the show, helping to protect your models if they fall over.
Take a binder and paper to the show with a list of the models entered, their tag numbers, and classes entered.
Keep good notes and records about each model and the class results for future reference.
Take along a "repair" kit for you and the models (medicines, water bottle, sack lunch (?), touch-up felt pens, extra hang tags, a writing pen and/or highlighter for class list, and a few dollars for the raffles).
Use a new, clean makeup brush, or a soft, lint-free towel to clean off any dust on the models after putting them on the class show table. (Put his best side facing the judge, but not too close to the edge of table.)
DO NOT BUMP SHOW TABLES. (Dominoing models make a horrible sound!)
DO NOT TOUCH ANYONE ELSE'S MODELS ANYWHERE, unless you ask permission first.
DO NOT TOUCH ANY MODELS ON THE SHOW TABLES, but your own.
Once models are put down on the show tables, and the judge has started judging, DO NOT TOUCH YOUR MODELS until the judge has placed the ribbons next to the models.
Promptly remove your models and ribbons to your setup table, and bring your models for the next class.
Remember to bring back your top winning models for the Championship call-back, according to the show rules. (Some shows only allow the 1st and 2nd place winners in the call-back. Others allow 3 to 4 of your choice.)
Ask the judge questions if you are unsure of something, but ask BEFORE or AFTER the class is judged, NOT DURING JUDGING.
Meet people, ask questions, and HAVE FUN!!!
Frequently Used Abbreviations &
Words in the Model Horse Hobby
ACM-Advanced Custom (show division for customized models for advanced showers)
APPY-Appaloosa (breed or color)
AR-Artist Resin
ARAB-Arabian (breed)
ARALOOSA-Half Arabian and half Appaloosa (breed)
ASB-American Saddlebred (breed)
ASHF Action Stock Horse Foal (a Breyer mold)
BCM Beginner Custom (show division of customized models for beginning showers)
BHR Black Horse Ranch mfg.
BOF Beginner Original Finish (show division of factory paint finish for beginning showers)
C Colt (male horse under 3 years)
CA (F,M,S) Classic Arabian Foal, Mare, Stallion (Breyer molds)
CE Commemorative Edition (produced for one year only)
CH/R China or Resin material
CHALKY Models with chalky plastic or white base coat
CHROME White markings (socks, blaze)
CL Classic series (adults approx. 6 inches high)
CP Custom Painted
CM Customized
CWP Cantering Welsh Pony (a Breyer mold)
DECORATOR Unusually colored OF models such as Wedgewood (blue), Gold Charm, Florentine. Rare and expensive.
DISC Discontinued
DRAFTER Refers to draft horse breeds
EP English Pleasure (show class)
F Filly (female horse under 3 years)
FA (F,M,S)Family Arabian Foal, Mare, Stallion (Breyer molds)
FALABELLA Miniature Horse (breed)
FIVE-GAITER Five-gaited American Saddle Bred (breed)
FL Flocked finish
G Gelding (neutered male horse)
GL High gloss finish
GRADE Mixed breed
HAIRED Models with false hair or string manes and tails
HR Hagen-Renaker manufacturing
IP Indian Pony (a Breyer mold breed type)
JAH Just About Horses magazine by Breyer/Reeves Int'l.
JCP JC Penney Company
LB Little Bits Series (Breyer molds approx. 5 inches high)
LP Lady Phase (a Breyer Q.H. mare mold)
LSASE Large Self-Addressed Envelope (business size)
LSQ Live Show Quality (in very mint condition)
M Mare (adult female horse)
MFT Missouri Fox Trotter (breed)
MIB Mint In Box (excellent mint condition new model)
MODEL The animal made from a certain mold (with color variations)
MOLD The form of an animal from which models are made
MORAB Half Morgan and half Arabian (breed)
NAN North American Nationals
NAMHSA North American Model Horse Show Association
NIB New In Box (new model not taken out of box)
NL North Light manufacturing
NOVICE Beginner
NSH National Show Horse (a part Arabian, part Saddlebred breed)
NWC Northwest Congress (a NAMHSA show)
OF Original Finish (original factory paint)
OPEN Advanced show division
OS Original Sculpture
PADDOCK PALS The new 1999 name for the Breyer Little Bits Series models.
PEARLY A pearlescent finish on a model
POA Pony of the Americas (breed)
POINTS The mane, tail, and lower legs on a horse; sometimes also the muzzle and edge of the ears.
PA (F,M,S) Proud Arabian Foal, Mare, Stallion (Breyer molds)
PS Peter Stone Co. mfg.
PPD Postage Paid
PSQ Photo Show Quality (not as good as LSQ)
QH Quarter Horse (a breed)
QUARAB Half Q.H. and half Arabian (breed)
REGULAR RUN (RR) Model listed in annual dealer/consumer catalogs, not a limited edition.
REP Repainted model
RESIST DAPPLING A dappling method using a resistant substance to leave lighter or white spots
RRH Repainted, remade, and haired model (same as CM with hairing)
S Stallion (adult male horse)
SASE Self Addressed Stamped Envelope
SB Saddlebred (breed)
SBW Saddlebred Weanling (a Breyer mold)
SCM Simple Custom (show division)
SG Semi-glossy finish
S/H Shipping and handling
SM Stablemate series (adults approx. 3 inches high)
SR or S Special Run (limited time and quantity available) model produced for specific dealers/events/sources; not listed in annual catalogs
SSHF Standing Stock Horse Foal (a Breyer mold)
TB Thoroughbred (breed)
TC Test Color model (VERY rare color)
TOPSA Totally Online Photo Show Association
TRU Toys R Us
TWH Tennessee Walking Horse (breed)
TRAD Traditional series (adults approx. 9 inches high)
WELARA Half Welsh Pony and half Arabian (breed)
WOODIE Woodgrain model
WP Western Pleasure (performance show class)
Grooming Tips From the Top
Show groomers share secret techniques for making their horses stand out on show day.
Every top show groom has his or her own bag of tricks out of which they pull some secret technique to make their horses stand out. Here's a list of tips to help you shine on show day:
For really white socks or stockings, dust the legs with baby powder, corn starch or French white chalk.
To cut down on static electricity in the mane and tail, use dryer sheets. One wipe-down through the hair will help eliminate static.
Rub a dab of baby oil along the bridle path to get rid of that chalky, just-clipped look and make it shiny.
For breeds that show with a patent-leather shiny hoof, fill in any old nail holes with a spackling compound that matches the color of your horse's hoof. For a black foot, the color of the compound won't matter. To polish the feet, use the wax-based, cake shoe polishes to add a deep luster to the foot while protecting it from the drying effects of hoof lacquer, which can be applied over the shoe polish.
When you don't need to pull the mane, use thinning shears to shorten it without having the chopped look of scissor cuts.
Clippers can give you the effect of a pulled tail, without having to pull out hairs. Run the clippers carefully along the outside of the dock and down about 4 to 6 inches, just up to the point where the hair begins to crest over. Thin the hairs along the top of the tail and blend longer hairs to gradually blend into the shorter ones.
Use setting gel when braiding to help stray or short wisps stay put in the braids.
Wash your horse a couple of days before the show so the oils of the coat have time to work to the surface for a natural shine. Keep a light sheet on to keep the coat clean until show day.
If you choose not to band a western horse's mane, lay a dampened towel over the neck to help the hairs lie down smoothly.
Keep a wrap on your horse's braided tail - temporarily - so that it arrives at the show grounds with the braid intact.
Apply only one coat of hoof oil or dressing if arena footing is deep. The oil will collect dirt, but the judge will know that you made the effort.
Instead of using rags to wipe down your horse, purchase inexpensive knit gloves (available at most drug or hardware stores) and apply the product directly to them. When you are finished, they can be washed.
For coarse tails, use a hot oil treatment in addition to your regular equine conditioner to soften the hairs and make them flow.
If your horse gets shavings in its braids, use a small, short-bristled brush to gently remove them without damaging any of your work.
If you clip the inside of your horse's ears, place cotton inside to prevent hairs from entering the ear canal and also to deaden the buzz of the clippers.