what is a good method of teaching a retired racehorse manners?

Question

i bought a retired racehorse back in october..when i first got her she was pretty thin and really calm..she would let anyone do anything to her and she didn't act up at all..but now she's putting the weight back on and becoming very spoiled..now anytime i'm handling her she acts up in some way or another..she tries to bite when she doesn't get what she wants and she can be quite pushy..what is a good way to get her to be not so pushy and to stop biting?

Answer 1

do a "join up". this will show your horse that you are the leader and by taking this role he will not try to dominate you(be "pushy"). hope this helps. the link will explain more about the "join up"

Answer 2

There aren't any typical 'cons' because every off the track horse has been under circumstances, like how long they've raced, how they were raised, everything. I previously rode at a trail riding yard where there was excess of 30 Standardbreds, not one was the same. Some were a little nutty but others you could have put a child on as soon as they came in off the track. I now own a TB who was prepped for racing but was never raced, I have to admit he's a little more zippy than any of the Standardbreds. But he's a sweetheart, nonetheless. One major difference I do notice between OTT-SB's and TB's; The Standardbreds are a generally more docile breed. Their basic ground manners are a lot better because while they're being harnessed for racing, there's no walking around or carrying on of any sort unlike while a jockey is mounting a TB. They've also worn every type of gear imaginable so sacking out is already half done. Cantering really isn't an issue for SB's if you know how to fix it, they just need a trustful relationship. So in my opinion, if you're after something a little more flashy with pizazz go for a TB. If you're looking for something a little more chilled out and easy going a SB is the way to go. Either way, expect the unexpected with OTT horses :-) -- Please Barefoot, don't use one bad racing stables as an ambassador for the rest. Every racehorse in my area (and surrounding) are treated like kings. I've never seen a chain in any of their mouths, more like halters completely lined with lambswool. My experience with racehorses is also behind the scenes, nothing nasty goes on whatsoever. Sure they could have their mouths pulled off on the track but I'd like to see how an Olympic dressage horse goes on a trail ride.

Answer 3

Yeah, a lot of horses who are undernourished are very calm because they just don't have the energy to play up. Now that she's feeling better it sounds like she's decided to put you in your proper place, which is below her in the pecking order! You need to do some very sharp groundwork with her and establish the ground rules - - ie, she doesn't enter your space unless and until you invite her, she must back out of your space, and she needs to mover her body wherever and whenever you ask her to do it. The easiest and safest way to accomplish all of this is in a roundpen or small paddock with the corners rounded off, but you can get the same results using a halter (rope halters work best) and a long lead rope, and a long stick of some sort, like a buggy whip. You should start with backing her out of your space, quite aggressively, and let her think about that for a few minutes! If she rears, just carry on backing her up (just watch out for those hooves). Get help if you need it, because she might rebel. It totally depends on what sort of temperament she has and how others handled her in the past. And biting gets that same treatment - scare the poop out of her making her back up about a furlong.



And, yes, as the person above me said, change her hard feed if necessary - she does not need any molasses in her diet or other simple carbs. As a matter of fact, if her weight is good or close to perfect, just cut out her grain altogether while you get her under control and well into her retraining program.

Answer 4

i too brought a ex race horse and he was just the same i found that when ever a male was around he would be fine but with me he would kick, bite and bluff me. Theory behind it was he had a male trainer and a female stable hand, Trainer wasn't scared but stable hand was and would let him get away with everything hence why he would try me, well i stood my ground and eventually he come around after a long 18 months of with just handling and ground work he is a changed horse so a good spell in a paddock will do her good.



you also need to be one step in front of her as you know she is going to try something and you need to show her who is the boss so keep your alert and look for signs.



maybe look into her diet as you don't wont to heat her up as thoroughbreds can be quite fizzy as is. There are feeds available for this something like a cool mix but ask your feed store they will know whats best for your area what your trying to do and being off the track you don't know what was put into her system when she was racing so maybe let her detox for a few months.



good luck

Answer 5

i had the SAME problem back in July! when i first got my gelding he was so mellow, but as soon as he put some weight on, i could hardly ride him. i ended up having to separate him from the other horses and working with him one on one everyday for about three months. i had to change bits, because he would run right through his snaffle, and not think twice. i put a broken port bit in while i worked with him, and built respect.

now we are back down to a snaffle, and have a really good relationship. i think it has a lot to do with trust when it comes to x-racers..

Good Luck, i know its frustrating

Answer 6

You could try a cattle prod. When you're working with her, every time she acts up just zap her. You probably won't have to zap her more than two or three times.